Mountains that kiss the sky. Hairpin bends carved by chaos. And you — gripping the wheel, somewhere between terror and total awe. Before you hurtle off into the wild unknown (with both dreams and insurance policy in hand), here’s everything you need to know about driving in the Dolomites.

---

Driving in the Dolomites isn’t just a way to get from A to B — it’s a full-blown choose your own adventure. One minute you’re cruising along a sun-drenched valley, the next you’re grinding your way up hairpin turns so tight they’d make a gymnast cry. It’s wild, it’s beautiful, and it’s not for the faint-hearted (or the unprepared).

I’ve spent weeks winding through these peaks, and let me tell you:
Driving here will test your nerves — but reward your soul.

Ready to find out how to do it without ending up weeping into your doppio espresso macchiato?
Let’s go.

The features in this post were hand-selected by an obsessive travel nerd with strong opinions who doesn’t gatekeep good shit (hi, that’s me). Some of them are affiliate links, which means I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting my work and the occasional wine along the way – Cat.

---

Is It Safe to Drive in the Dolomites?

Short answer: Yes — if you know what you’re signing up for.

Longer answer:
Driving here feels a bit like starring in your very own action film, except with more goats and less CGI. The roads are winding, narrow, occasionally vertical, and sometimes blessed with visibility so bad it feels like you’re steering by faith alone.

But honestly?
It’s totally doable.
Thousands of people drive these bends every year.
You just need to stay alert, drive cautiously, and maybe whisper a little prayer to the gods of traction control.

You’ll love it once you get past the first oh-my-god-what-am-I-doing bend.

Need a rental car?

If you’re nervous, I highly recommend renting a small, nimble car. Discover Cars lets you easily filter for automatics too — because nobody needs the extra pressure of clutch control while dodging cows.

⤷ Thinking about car hire? Here’s a post you should read first

10 Essential Tips for Driving in the Dolomites

1. Use Lower Gears on Steep Descents

I know, I know — you didn’t come here for a lecture from your dad. Bear with me, okay?

This isn’t the place to ride your brakes down a mountain like you’re in a 1996 Toyota Corolla ad.
Downshift, engine brake, and give your poor brake pads a break.
You’ll feel more in control, and your rental car will thank you by not bursting into flames halfway down Passo Pordoi.

Driving an automatic?
I’m told you can shift into low gear for descents. Wouldn’t know. Never done it.
It’s a manual life for me.
Maybe just clutch your pearls and hope for the best.

Or ask a dad.

2. Download Offline Maps Before You Go

Google Maps is a fair-weather friend in the Dolomites.
One moment you’re navigating like a champ, the next you’re a lonely blue dot lost in the matrix.

Download offline maps before you leave WiFi range.
I use Google Maps for basics and Gaia GPS if I’m planning to go really rogue.

You’ll need to be hands-free while driving in Italy, so do yourself a favour and pack a phone holder. Trust me: one-handed hairpin turns are not a vibe.

CAT’S HOT TIP | If you want mobile data (and you do), I use Airalo for an Italy eSIM. No more $50 Instagram sunsets. So easy to install, even your mum can do it solo (mine did).

3. Watch Out for Cyclists, Cows, and Speeding Grannies

You think I’m joking.
I’m not.

Cyclists swarm the Dolomites like over-caffeinated bees in summer.
Cows wander around hairpins like they own the place (because they do).
And tiny Nonnas in Fiat Pandas?
Will absolutely overtake you on a blind bend while you’re still wondering if your blinker’s on.

Stay sharp.
Stay chill.
Expect the unexpected.

All speeds and distances in Italy are in kilometres, so don’t be fooled.
Speed limits vary depending on the road type — highways allow up to 130 km/h (80 mph), while urban areas usually max out at 50 km/h (30 mph).
Nonna doesn’t care, but you do.

In the Dolomites, expect to well below the speed limit on mountain roads. And that’s okay (don’t let the dickhead tailgating you in a Lamborghini convince you otherwise).

Always carry your driver’s licence (and an IDP if you need one), plus your vehicle registration and insurance docs — it’s legally required.

Oh, and a quick note on the celebratory Spritz:
Italy has a strict drink-drive limit of 0.5mg of blood alcohol.
Basically, one glass of wine could toast your licence.
If you’re the designated driver, just don’t risk it.

• Save

4. Arrive Early to Popular Spots

Want to watch the sunrise at Lago di Braies without 3000 of your closest friends?
Want to park somewhere other than “random goat path halfway up a cliff”?

Get there early.
Like, “coffee shops aren’t even open” early.
Sunrise early.
Regretting all your life choices early.

Not only will you score parking and peace, but you’ll get to see the Dolomites at their most magical — mist swirling, light shifting, and zero tour groups.

Bring snacks.
Bring patience.
Bring the self-righteous glow that only comes from a smug sense of accomplishment.

5. Plan your route around the best drives in the Dolomites

You’re not just here to get from A to B — you’re here for the big views, tiny winding roads, and questionable life choices at 2000 metres.

These are the drives you absolutely shouldn’t miss:

THE GREAT DOLOMITES ROAD

This is the iconic road trip route — running from Bolzano to Cortina and serving up more jaw-dropping moments than a reality TV show.
Sure, you could blast it out in a day, but trust me: take it slow, make stops, live your best “I’m on holiday, no plans, no fucks given” life.

PASO PORDOI

Part of the Great Dolomites Road — and a strong contender for Most Hairpins in a Single Drive (28, if you’re counting).
Park up at the top and catch the cable car to Sass Pordoi (2950m) for panoramas that’ll punch you right in the soul.

PASO GARDENA

One of my personal favourites.
This stretch is so stupidly beautiful it should be illegal. Think endless views, sweeping switchbacks, and frequent moments of “am I dreaming?”

PASO GIAU

Famous for that snake-like road you’ve seen all over Instagram — but honestly, it’s even better at sunrise, when the mist pools in the valleys and everything looks like it was Photoshopped by the gods.
There’s also a tiny rifugio perfectly placed for the world’s most glorious coffee break.

• Save

6. Parking is an Extreme Sport

Finding a parking spot in the Dolomites is less “casual holiday errand” and more “Hunger Games prequel.”
Especially at hotspots like Lago di Braies or Alpe di Siusi, where the early birds get the worms and the only legal spots within a 10km radius.

Get there early.
Get creative (but not illegal — that fine won’t be cute).

CAT’S HOT TIP | If the parking gods are unkind, don’t panic. Look for overflow lots slightly outside the hotspots — they’re usually cheaper, calmer, and your photos will thank you for the extra scenic walk.

And whatever you do, know how to spot a ZTL sign (“Zona a Traffico Limitato” = restricted traffic zone) and GTFO unless you fancy spending €100 on a blurry photo of your rental car and a firm letter from the Italian government.
In towns like Bolzano, the fines are automatic.

No warnings. No grace period. Just cold, hard euros draining from your soul.

7. Take Regular Breaks (And Not Just for Photos)

Mountain driving is mentally exhausting — not just physically.
Twisting roads, sheer drops, hairpin bends, rogue cows… it’s a lot.

Stop often. Stretch your legs. Smash a coffee. Eat a pastry the size of your head.
Let your brain reboot before you start round two of “Is that a road or just a very enthusiastic goat track?”

It’s not just safer — it’s the secret to actually enjoying your Dolomites road trip instead of white-knuckling it from one stop to the next.

• Save

8. Keep Some Cash Handy

You’d think in 2025 you could rely on card payments everywhere, right?
HAHA. No.

Some petrol stations, remote mountain huts, parking meters, and rogue toll booths are still cash-only — especially once you veer off the main tourist routes.

Always keep €20–50 tucked into your glovebox, camera bag, or the special secret wallet compartment you definitely didn’t forget existed.
Because trust me: realising you can’t pay for parking after you’ve just parallel-parked on a 30° incline is not the adventure story you want.

CAT’S HOT TIP | Coins are gold dust. If you see a chance to break a note into €1 and €2 coins, take it. Future you trying to pay an irritable parking machine (or human) will thank you.

4. Check the Weather Every Morning

Mountain weather is a drama queen.

One minute it’s sunny, the next there’s hail bouncing off your bonnet like you’re in a weird alpine apocalypse.
Check the weather forecast every morning before you set off — and if snow is in the mix, make damn sure your rental has winter tyres and chains (and you know how to use them).

9. Let Locals Overtake You

Look, you’re not here to win the Dolomites Grand Prix (I know it’s not a thing, but it should be).
You’re here to stare out the window like a golden retriever discovering a new park.

If a local driver is riding your bumper like they’ve got an espresso-fuelled vendetta, let them pass.
Pull over at the next safe spot and wave them through like the benevolent goddess you are.

It’s safer, politer, and infinitely better for your blood pressure.
(Plus, you really don’t want to get hexed by an irate Italian nonna with 3000 years of generational spite behind her.)

Italians often give a quick “thank you” flash of the hazards after you let them pass. You’re basically being knighted.

10. Fill Your Tank Early and Often

Petrol stations in the Dolomites are like unicorns:
Real, but suspiciously rare when you actually need to prove they exist.

Outside of big towns — and especially outside summer season — you might drive for an hour without spotting a single pump.
And even when you do find one, it might be closed for important Italian reasons like “it’s lunchtime” or “nobody needs fuel at 6 in the evening”.

If you dip below half a tank, fill up. Always.

And don’t assume you’ll be able to pay with your pretty little contactless card either — you’ll often need a chip-and-PIN credit card, or straight-up cash (me: a stuck record).

CAT’S HOT TIP | Always fuel up when you pass a station, even if you’re “probably fine.”
The only thing worse than running out of petrol on a mountain pass is having to hike back up it with a full jerry can.

• Save

Bonus Tip #11. Don’t get Caught by Sneaky Extra Tolls

Oh hey, look at you — still here. Legend.
Told you I was way more fun than a dad lecture.
Here’s a cheeky extra tip I threw in just for you (and to outsmart the toll trolls).

If you’re heading up to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, there’s a toll road you’ll need to pay — €30 for 12 hours.
Usually, you can pay by card, but the machines can sometimes get… moody. Cash is your friend. And so is getting down the mountain before you’re charged double…

Otherwise, you won’t see many tolls inside the Dolomites — unless you start road-tripping toward Milan, Verona, or Venice.

CAT’S TOP TIP | I always set Google Maps to “avoid tolls” and double-check the route. Sometimes the “toll-free” option adds two extra hours — and sometimes it just saves you €4 and an existential crisis. Throw cash at the problem when it makes sense.

Final Thoughts on Driving In the Dolomites: Trust Yourself (You’ve Got This)

You’re not just renting a car.
You’re renting freedom.
Permission to chase sunrises, stumble into mountain rifugi, scream-laugh your way down switchbacks, and stop whenever the light kisses the valley just right.

Driving in the Dolomites is a little chaotic, a little wild, and utterly unforgettable.
Kind of like all the best parts of life.

So rent the car.
Take the road.
Tell the safe, sensible part of your brain to sit this one out — because you, my friend, have mountains to drive.

Loved this guide?
Save it, share it, or send it to the poor soul you’re trusting with the aux cable.
Or come tell me about the time a tiny Italian Nonna in a Fiat Panda blew past you doing 100km/h around a blind bend — I’ll be waiting in the DMs, Hugo Spritz in hand, ready to trade battle stories.

Let’s ride.

Cat x