Larches on fire. A lake like glass. And a mountain hut with the kind of cake you will hike six hours for.
This Croda da Lago hike isn’t just the best autumn trail in the Dolomites – it’s the one you’ll still be dreaming about in February.
Updated: April 2025

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If you’re craving that I can’t believe this is real life kind of hike – the kind where gold-drenched larch forests shimmer at sunrise and alpine peaks punch into the sky like they’re auditioning for a postcard – welcome to your next obsession.

Croda da Lago is an unforgettable loop trail in the Italian Dolomites that wraps around a jagged ridgeline and drops you right into one of the most photogenic scenes in the Alps: Lago di Federa, lit up like a fire opal in late October. Along the way, you’ll wander through glowing forests, refuel at a rustic rifugio, and sweat your way up to some of the most spectacular valley views this region offers.

This isn’t the easiest trail out there – you’ll earn your cake – but it’s absolutely manageable for most hikers with decent fitness and decent boots. And if you’re me? You’ll also lug two cameras, a drone, a tripod, and a thermos of coffee to the top because who needs working legs anyway?!

In this guide, I’ll show you exactly how to do the Croda da Lago circuit with all the juicy details you need: where to start, which way to go, how to get the best sunrise shots, what to pack, and how to avoid sobbing your way down a scree slope in the dark. (Hint: start early. And bring poles.)

Spoiler alert: you’re about to become that person who won’t shut up about the Dolomites. Here’s everything you need to make this dream a reality.

The features in this post were hand-selected by an obsessive travel nerd with strong opinions who doesn’t gatekeep good shit (hi, that’s me). Some of them are affiliate links, which means I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting my work and the occasional wine along the way – Cat.

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Is Croda da Lago the right hike for you?

You’re chasing The Shot. You’ve heard whispers about glowing larches and a mirror-still alpine lake that turns gold at sunrise. If you’re visiting the Dolomites in October and want a hike that’s full-on visual poetry without being a technical nightmare? This one should be top of your list (no coffee-toting sherpa required).

The Croda da Lago circuit is the Dolomites hike for autumn lovers, golden hour hunters, and anyone who believes cake tastes better at altitude.

Here’s the lowdown:

✔️ You want a loop trail with proper “am I in a movie?” scenery
✔️ You’re visiting in late October and chasing peak larch madness
✔️ You like your hikes with a mid-trail coffee + cake stop (hi, rifugio)
✔️ You’ve got decent fitness and boots – and maybe hiking poles for backup
✔️ You’re all in for a sunrise moment that’ll melt your face off (in a good way)
✔️ You’re comfortable with a few steep sections and loose scree

✖️ You’re hiking in early season (May-June) – snow lingers on the passes
✖️ You hate scree, boulder fields or surprise descents (this trail saves the worst for last)
✖️ You don’t have a car or don’t want to stay local – it’s remote and public transport is limited off-season
✖️ You’re hoping for a mellow lakeside stroll – this is 5-6 hours of leg-burning, camera-grabbing, ‘how is this real?’ adventure

This one’s for you if you’re in the Dolomites for those wild + wonderful + wow kind of hikes. It’s not a technical route, but you’ll earn your bragging rights (and your cake).

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What’s the Croda da Lago (aka Autumn Trail of Your Dreams) Hike Actually Like?

Imagine walking through a forest that looks like someone turned the saturation dial up to eleven. The air’s got that crisp, pine-needle-and-campfire tang. You’re surrounded by golden larches that shimmer like they’re lit from within, and every time you stop to catch your breath, the views kinda don’t let you.

The trail kicks off with a gentle wander through forest paths, past trickling waterfalls, til you reach an alpine meadow with a cute wooden hut straight out of Heidi. But don’t get too comfortable – the trail to the viewpoint ahead will have your thighs screaming and your heart doing jazz hands. It’s called Val Negra, and from here you’ll see the Dolomites flexing every single one of their photogenic muscles.

Next? The showstopper: Lago di Federa. It’s tucked into a bowl of forest and stone, so still and clear it doesn’t look real. This is where you’ll want to linger. Snap photos. Drink coffee. Possibly cry a bit (I’m not one to judge). The rifugio serves cake, but honestly, you’ll probably never look at ‘cake with a view’ the same again (eat it anyway).

Just when you think you’ve peaked – nope. You’ll climb higher, up to Forcella de Formin, overlooking the Mondeval valley, where the landscape explodes into ridgelines and drama. Then comes the descent: loose scree, big views, and that bone-deep, satisfied tiredness that only comes from really earning your dinner.

This isn’t an easy stroll. But it is magic. And if you do it in late October? It’s pure gold.

How to Get to the Croda da Lago Trailhead (No drama, just larches)

So, you’ve packed your boots, prepped your camera, and mentally committed to that sunrise. Love that for you. Now let’s get you to the trailhead with your sanity (and sense of direction) intact.

Getting there by Car (the route to minimal swearing)

PARKING TIP | Arrive before 8am for your best shot at a spot, or aim for mid-afternoon if you’re staying overnight at the rifugio (the early birds will be gone by then).

Getting there by Bus (for high-season heroes)

Public transport is an option… kind of. But only from mid-June to mid-September, and you’ll need to channel your inner logistics queen.

From Cortina :
– Summer only, Bus 30/4 Cortina-Pescul stops at Pian del Pantan
– Check Dolomiti Bus timetables here (you’ll only be able to see the summer timetables from June)

From Dobbiaco :
– Bus 445 goes to Cortina where you’ll change
– 4 times daily. Check exact times on Südtirol Mobil.

TRANSLATION | Doable if you’re here in July. Impossible if it’s October. If you’re committed to the no-car life, consider hiking up from Cortina the night before and staying at Rifugio Croda da Lago.

There’s another option to get to the trailhead if you don’t have your own wheels – a jeep taxi from Cortina, bookable via +393460825609. If you’ve pulled a Full Cat^™ and can’t get there under your own steam, you can even get them to drop you and your luggage at the rifugio.

Trailhead Location

The Trail starts on path 437, signposted from Ponte de Ru Curto (confusingly, the bus stop is called Pian del Pantan. It’s easy to find and you’ll see Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri signs, so you’ll know you’re in the right place (the parked cars are also kind of a giveaway tbh).

The Best Time to Hike Croda da Lago

Late October. That’s it. That’s the tweet.

Croda da Lago is beautiful year-round, but in October? It’s something else. You’ll swear someone dropped a bucket of liquid gold across the forest. The larches go full fire. The lake becomes a mirror. The Dolomites go full diva.

Croda da Lago is the autumn hike in the Dolomites. And the timing has to be right.

Here’s the lowdown:

Best Season (Autumn. Always)

✔️ October = PEAK LARCH
The larch trees go full flame-coloured fabulous, and the sunrise at Lago di Federa hits like a religious experience. It’s what this trail was made for. Later is usually better, but (there’s always a but in the mountains) early snow can screw your plans.
✔️ Rifugio Croda da Lago usually stays open until the first weekend of November, which is later than most huts in the Dolomites. That means cake, coffee, and sunrise views are all on the table.

Early September and mid–late July are also good. Fewer crowds, wildflowers in spring, the views are still gorgeous. But it won’t have that same wow as the autumn magic.

Avoid mid-Nov to mid June since either the rifugio’s closed, trail conditions are yikes, or you’re still likely to find half the passes covered in snow.

August? Hate it. Crowded, hot, and the larches are boring green. I mean I’d still do the hike, but I’d be 78% more moany.

Best Time of Day (Sunrise or Bust)

If you only remember one thing from this guide, let it be this:

Get. To. Lago di Federa. For. Sunrise.

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Whether you have to power-hike 2 hours uphill in the dark, stay overnight at the rifugio (a tip for smart people) or bribe your travel buddy with cake… Do whatever it takes to be there when the light hits the larch canopy and turns it into a glowing golden portrait.

It’s one of those moments. The ones you remember long after your boots are muddy and your thighs have stopped screaming.

TIP | Afternoon storms are common, and this isn’t a trail you want to finish in the dark — unless you enjoy scree-skiing by headlamp.

Step-by-Step: Hiking the Croda da Lago/Lago di Federa Circuit

TRAILHEAD | Ponte de Ru Curto
DIRECTION | Clockwise (trust me)
DISTANCE | 13.5km (give or take)
TIME | 5-6 hours (excluding coffee-and-cake stops)

You don’t need a local guide for this hike – just good boots, decent snacks, and this breakdown.

Because while the trail might be marked, it also comes with forks, switchbacks, and one descent that’ll make you wish for a ski lift and a stronger core. Here’s exactly what to expect, from fairy forests to altitude-fuelled cake and a final scree slide that’s both humbling and heroic.

Let’s walk it together.

Ponte de Ru Curto to Cason de Formin

DISTANCE | 1.7km
TIME | ~45 mins
PATH | 437

Start strong. And, by that, I mean downhill. From Ponte de Ru Curto, follow path 437 across a sweet little bridge and follow it through the forest beside the Ru Formin stream. Expect dappled light, mossy rocks, and a few surprise waterfalls. It’s giving enchanted forest energy.

Eventually, you’ll pop out into a pasture where Cason de Formin wooden hut awaits. Take a breath. Stretch. This is your “before it gets real” moment.

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Cason de Formin to Val Negra Viewpoint

DISTANCE | 0.7km
TIME | ~30 mins
PATH | 434

This section climbs, and it does not mess around. It’s a short, sharp uphill through switchbacks that’ll have your quads whispering rude things about you (especially if you, like me, tackled Lago di Sorapis in the morning). But then… Val Negra.

Veer left for the short detour to the viewpoint. You’ll see Cinque Torri flexing in the distance, and if it’s a clear day, Cortina too. It’s one of those spots that turns hikers into poets and photographers into puddles.

Val Negra to Lago di Federa & Rifugio Croda da Lago

DISTANCE | 1.6km
TIME | ~20 mins
PATH | 434

Ahhhh, the payoff. The trail levels out and winds through cow pasture (don’t forget to close the gate!), eventually dropping you at that lake. That view. That rifugio.

You’ve made it to Lago di Federa – a glassy jewel nestled beneath Croda da Lago’s peaks, surrounded by golden larch trees that honestly look like they were styled by a Wes Anderson location scout.

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Take the path round the west side of the lake for the best photo ops. Then reward yourself by hitting the deck at Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri. Take in the views. Maybe a coffee. And some cake. I don’t judge. Stay overnight here for sunrise at the lake.

You could turn around at the lake, making for a much shorter day and easier hike, but you’d be missing some of the most impressive scenery in the area.

Lago di Federa to Forcella Ambrizzola

DISTANCE | 2.1km
TIME | ~50 mins
PATH | 434

Time to climb again, baby. The trail heads uphill past the lake and toward the Beco de Mezodì. Turn around often — the views are outrageous. The trail to Forcella Ambrizzola feels long, but it’s steady and oh-so-pretty. This is a good spot for a picnic or a dramatic sigh while looking wistfully into the distance.

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Forcella Ambrizzola to Forcella de Formin

DISTANCE | 1.6km
TIME | ~1h
PATH | 436 ➝ 435

Here’s where the hike leans into its main character energy. The trail undulates gently before a final ascent to the saddle of Forcella de Formin — the highest point on the hike at 2,462m.

This section is pure drama: jagged peaks, wind-in-your-hair vibes, and sweeping views across the Mondeval valley. Take it in before the real descent begins. Also, you know, take a minute to recover from that endless uphill slog.

Take a seat, marvel at the Mondeval valley (home of the Mondeval man), and the distant peaks of Monte Pelmo. Although the toughest uphill is done, you’ve still got a decent hike ahead. Refuel.

Forcella de Formin to Ponte de Ru Curto

DISTANCE | 4.4km
TIME | ~1.5h
PATH | 435 ➝ 437

This descent is a bit feral. It starts off steep with loose scree and boulders, and you’ll need to watch your step. Poles help. So does swearing.

Eventually, things mellow out as you reenter the larch forest. It’s all gentle downhill from here, looping you back to Cason de Formin and then retracing your steps to the car.

Starting the Croda da Lago Hike from Cortina (No Car? No Drama!)

If you’re staying in Cortina and either hate the idea of driving or just fancy a longer, more off-the-grid approach, you can absolutely start this hike from your front door – be warned, it’s a whole extra adventure.

You’ll follow trail 432 out of town, wind through Campo di Sotto, and eventually pass Lago Pianozes and the Gores de Federa – a mossy, fairy-tale section with waterfalls and wooden bridges that’ll slow your pace in the best way. Then it’s a steep climb (because of course it is) up to Malga Federa, and finally a gentle-ish roll into Rifugio Croda da Lago.

It’s lush. It’s long. And it’s only for those who actually like the sound of a 9km uphill warm-up.

TRAILHEAD | Your hotel in Cortina
DISTANCE | 9 km one way
TIME | 2.5-3 hours
ELEVATION | 950m ascent, 100m descent
DIFFICULTY | Moderate to challenging, depending on how much you packed and whether you remembered coffee

My suggestion? Break it up. Stay overnight at the rifugio, watch sunrise over the lake with the photography crowd (sorry), then complete the circuit and head back to Cortina the next day.

Hiker’s high: unlocked.

Map of the Croda da Lago Hike and Lago di Federa Trail Route

The map below outlines the main route in addition to some great photo spots that you should definitely try to get to. To save this map to your own account, just click on the little star next to the title.

Trail Conditions & What to Pack to Hike Croda da Lago

This trail isn’t a technical hike. But it will test your hamstrings, make you reconsider your shoe choices, and convince you (once and for all) that hiking poles aren’t just for retirees named Barry.

What the trail’s actually like:

The loop is well-marked and easy to follow for the most part. There are painted trail markers (those trusty red and white flashes) and signs to Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri at key junctions.

If you do the loop clockwise (my rec), you’ll hit the lake earlier in the day, get the worst of the ascent done before lunch, and save your knees from screaming on the descent… well, mostly.

But let’s talk about that descent.

From Forcella de Formin, things get spicy. It’s steep, it’s loose, and it feels a bit like nature’s own Stairmaster covered in ball bearings. You’ll want poles. And snacks. Possibly therapy.

Gear you actually need:

• Decent hiking boots – not trainers, not cute sneakers, boots. Your ankles will thank you.
• Hiking poles – especially for the descent. They turn scree-surfing into something vaguely graceful.
• Layers – mountain weather is moodier than me after a cancelled flight. Bring a waterproof shell and something warm.
• Sun protection – even in autumn, you’ll want a hat, sunscreen, and sunnies.
• Head torch – if you’re aiming for sunrise and not staying at the rifugio, this isn’t optional.
• Water + snacks – always. Yes, there’s cake at the hut, but you still need trail fuel.
• Camera – trust me, you’ll regret it if you don’t. This hike was made for shutter-happy overpackers.

Optional but delightful: a thermos of coffee for sunrise, a good attitude for the descent, and an appreciation of thigh pain as a spiritual experience.

Where to Stay (and Eat Cake) for the Croda da Lago Hike

The best option for sunrise is to stay at Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri. Roll out of bed, walk five minutes, and watch sunrise hit Lago di Federa with a hot coffee in hand. Bliss.

Staying here also means you can split the hike into more manageable sections if you’re not keen to do the whole thing in a day.

MY TOP PICK
Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri
Open | early June to early November
Rooms | 50 beds, booking essential and you need to arrive before 6pm
Perks | delicious dinner, buffet breakfast, hot showers and a sauna (must book in advance)
Day trip | Open to all for meals/drinks and public toilets (hurrah!!)
Book | here

Another option very close to the rifugio is Malga Federa. They’re open for lunch and dinner, although recommendations are required. They also have overnight accommodation.

CLOSE CONTENDER
Malga Federa
Open | from early June to early September and again from early December to March
Rooms | 4 doubles and 1 quad, all with private bathroom. Booking essential
Book | here.

If you’re not so bothered about photography, then I recommend staying in Cortina d’Ampezzo.

LUXE IN CORTINA
Grand Hotel Savoia | Best for views, great location right by the Faloria Cable car and an amazing spa. There’s an excellent breakfast included too. Check prices & availability here.

DOLOMITES ACCOMMODATION | Want the full scoop on the best Dolomites towns to base yourself for hiking, photography, and chilled evenings with a view? Read my complete Dolomites accommodation guide.

FAQs about the Croda da Lago Hike

Final Thoughts on Hiking Croda da Lago

Some hikes give you views. This one gives you views, vibes, and a visceral need to yell “ARE YOU SEEING THIS?!” at a mountain.

Croda da Lago is the trail for autumn chasers, sunrise lovers, and anyone who wants their hike with a side of wild wonder (and cake). Yes, your legs will feel it. No, you won’t regret it for a second. Especially not when you’re sipping coffee on the rifugio deck, watching the lake turn to gold.

If you’ve made it this far down the post? You’re clearly my kind of person. Pin this guide for later or share it with a fellow hiker who needs convincing.

Questions, errors, or still deciding whether to pack hiking boots or wine? Comment below or slide into my DMs on Insta.

See you out there – camera in hand, larch leaves crunching underfoot, pretending we’re not slightly out of breath.

You’ve got this.